Epson Perfection V300 Photo Color Scanner (Black)
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How do I change film from negative to positive?
I'm going to buy a camera (Lomography Spinner 360) and I'm wondering how I can develop and scan my own film. After I develop the film, it becomes the 'negatives', right? So when will these photos become positive? Do I need an enlarger to flip the colors or can I easily do this with chemicals? I was planning on using a scanner instead of an enlarger but I'm unsure of whether I will have to digitally alter each photo to change it from 'negative' to 'positive'. People seem to be missing a very important part of your question... the "lomo" camera. You cannot use slide film, (which is most certainly still available), with a lomo camera. Well... you *can* physically use it, but you would be lucky to have 2 usable shots from a roll. Slide (positive) film has much less exposure latitude than negative film. A lomo camera is severely crippled when it comes to getting a proper exposure even with negative film. It is almost impossible to get consistent good exposure with slide film. You will need a "real" camera to use true positive film. Now, you can process true black and white film (NOT C41 black and white film) yourself. You do not even need a darkroom. Just a changing bag and the necessary chemicals and canisters. This is relatively cheap and easy. If you are planning to make optical prints, that is when you will need the enlarger, darkroom, more chemicals, trays, photographic paper. It gets MUCH more expensive and difficult making optical prints. With a film scanner, you simply scan the negatives into a digital format for printing / computer use. That is actually how the great majority of film prints are made today anyway. There are very, very few labs that still make optical prints with an enlarger in a dark room. The film is simply scanned and prints made from the now digital files. The scanner, by the way, uses it's built in software to reveal the negative as a positive. The problem then becomes the quality of the scanner. You can get cheap ones that give pretty poor results, or you can get a drum scanner that costs over $20,000. Probably the best compromise home scanner on the market now is the Epson Perfection V600. The Plustek Opticfilm is also a very good unit, but it only scans 35mm. If you use 120 medium format film, you will need the Epson. Also, the Canon Canoscan 9000 has been given good reviews, (at least for a flatbed scanner). steve Steve P | Read more Pushing film question? So, I have a film and want to push it from 400 to 800 I got my 400 ISO film developed at a store. Could I get underexposed film to an equivalent of 800 iso? 1. if you use an enlarger, ... to print them in a dark room by hand 2. if you would use a 35mm scanner and scan the slides in TIF format and overexpose in photoshop or something... it's just a question that I have. I'm just wondering, what if you film shots are under and overexposed and you didn't knew it when you develop them. thx in advance Pushing film is the process of underexposing film, and compensating for that during development. Essentially, with each stop of underexposure you have to increase the contrast of the picture to compensate. The side effects are increased grain and loss of detail in the shadows and highlights. If you shoot ISO 400 at ISO 800, you must ask the lab to push the film one stop. Not all labs can do that, and typically only pro labs will handle those requests. Pushing the film is equivalent to developing the film for more time. With black and white film, you simply increase the time of the developer bath. With color, only the first developer is extended and then the rest of the process is identical. It sounds like you shot the film one stop lower and processed it normally. You will most likely have some loss of detail in your shadows, but the pictures will still be fairly usable. Once the film is developed, you use it exactly the same as if it were shot and processed normally. So the answer to your two questions is that there is no change in how you would print in a darkroom or scan on a scanner. As to your last question, if your pictures are under-exposed you will have loss of detail in the shadows. If the picture is over-exposed you will lose detail in the highlights. Negative film (like color C-41 process film or traditional black and white) is more forgiving to overexposure. Positive film (or E-6 process film) is more forgiving to underexposure. Positive film does not have a lot of leeway, so you can't over or under expose by a whole stop and not have problems. Negative film can handle as much as three stops over exposure, and at least one stop underexposure before you have mostly unusable pictures. Berin L | Read more |
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